The first major fatality occurred in February 1914 when W. S. King and A.C. guides Thomson and Richmond were killed by an avalanche from the slopes of Mount Cook on the Linda Glacier. In January 1930 acting guide J. E. E. Blomfield and four women were overwhelmed by a sudden violent storm on the Tasman Glacier. The worst accident has been on Mount Egmont, which to July 1965 had claimed 33 lives. Egmont, which is an easy scramble for hundreds in summer but frequently in winter an ice climb of high technical standard, was in July 1953 the setting for a slip involving a large party. Two men and four women lost their lives.

In the last 50 years, deaths in the Mount Cook region have reached a total of 59. Of that number 19 mountaineers to date (April 1965) have died on the mountain itself.

A highly organised and efficient Search and Rescue Organisation has proved invaluable in rescuing the injured or lost and in recovery work of all kinds. It is regrettable that many of the fatalities were the result of climbers' inexperience.

by Ronald Jones, Journalist and Script Writer, New Zealand Broadcasting Corporation, Wellington.